在香港做西裝節省最少30% 的方法, 來料加工
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在香港做西裝節省最少30% 的方法, 來料加工
CMT (來料加工) : Cut（裁剪）, Make（製作/縫製）, Trim（整理及縫邊）
以下以港元計香港舖租太貴, 商業區洋服店已無他選. 為交租, 羊毛出在羊身上, 他們只會提高最少30%價錢. 如果你找非商業區的洋服店做 CMT 比直接找洋服店做西裝, 你可平均節省30% to 40%.
我不是說 WW Chan 等香港頂班級數的洋服店, 這級數的洋服店的確是全港最好. 我是說中級至下價的洋服店. 事實是香港大部份洋服店只在港接訂單, 為節省成本和解決生產問題, 他們將生產交與深圳龍崗區的工場. 香港洋服店實質只提供 fitting 服務, 他們會在生產成本和西裝布料提價, 做得好也只能生存.
深圳龍崗區有太多工場(最多在布吉), 香港洋服店就會以不同價的西裝交予不同價的工場, 當然較高價的工場, 手工也好一點. 例如 (大約計), 香港洋服店 HK$8k 的西裝, 布料價是少於$1.5k, 龍崗工場工費不會多過$2k. $5k的西裝, 布料價是少於$1k, 龍崗工場工費不會多過$1.2k. $3k的西裝, 布料價是少於$500, 通常來自深圳東門區, 龍崗工場工費不會多過$800. $20k以上西裝, 洋服店其實賺取布料更高毛利, 200%-300%. 越貴布料, 越賺錢. 為節省成本, 洋服店會盡量提供平價布料. 一般而言, 樓上舖平過地面舖. 羅湖商場也是這樣, 他們也要交租生存.
太多靚布料 (只是提出小部份): Dormeuil, Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Ariston, Thomas Fisher, Zegna , Loro Piana, VBC, Fintes Drago, Charles Clayton, Giorgio Vallino (國產), 等.
那裏買靚布?
上網找, 你可找到很多疋頭, 大名牌布料也可少於$1k一碼, 出名洋服店就收最少 $15k一套西裝. 基本VBC 只是少於$300一碼, 出名洋服店就收最少 $5k一套西裝. CMT做越貴布料, 越比去洋服店節省金錢, 上面已說明洋服店提高貴價布料的毛利, 200%-300%. 再者, 疋頭布行比洋服店提供更多布料選擇, 這也是選擇 CMT 的原因.你買布料前, 先問你裁縫你需要多少碼布, 2件頭, 3件頭, 大樓都不同. 人人身型不同. 我做2件頭單襟要用3.5碼. 你先要明白, 疋頭布行主要供布予洋服店, 他們不會浪廢時間向你講解那布適合你. 去疋頭布行前, 你要先定案要甚麼布. 部份疋頭布行, 只容許你說出布的號碼, 然後付錢交貨. 上環西港城, 就很開放. 可以慢慢看. 又或者可以先到洋服店比較布料才到疋頭布行.
恒康呢絨: Zegna, Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Dormeuil
同盛: Scabal, Holland & Sherry
龍華行: Loro Piana, VBC, Charles Clayton, Giorgio Vallino,
老合興 (比以上3家貴): 好多好布, Dormeuil, Zegna, Scabal, Holland & Sherry避開: omega (美麗都大廈 TST), Saviero (紅磡)
避開: KingHERO and Milano也可上網訂平布: Fresco https://www.hfwltd.com/ , Harrison http://clothtosuit.com/
英國訂布以米計. 1米=1.1碼, 3米=3.3碼.另一要點是這樣. 小部份疋頭布行自制品牌, 例如名錶, 意大利名, 英文名, 非布料類的名牌等. 當你上網找資料, 就會發現那些名牌布料其實不存在. 那些假名牌大多是國產布料, 打上名牌. 或許你也見無品牌的英國料或意大利料, 那些也大多是國產布料, 深圳東門也找到. 部份香港及大陸洋服店亦可能被那些疋頭布行欺騙, 承包這類假名牌國產布料, 高價售賣取高毛利. 部份這類假名牌國產布料, 品質參差, 但小部份也有機會是可以接受. 以下3類可從火燃試驗和氣味試驗, 分辯出來:
- 較下價羊毛 (通常$400一碼之內): 工業化纖維
- 中價羊毛: 工業化纖維 + 棉纖維 或 + 循環再造羊毛
- 高價羊毛: 真羊毛
假羊毛充滿市場, 假羊毛布多過個真羊毛布. 消費者最好避免到太小規模的疋頭布行. 買布時, 最好選一碌布剪出來, 不要散剪訂布, 平d.
那裏有裁縫做 CMT?
- 第一選擇: 洋服店的裁縫, 2) 第二選擇: 九龍洋服店. 一般而言, 樓上舖平過地面舖. 不用去深圳龍崗區的工場. 上網找 tailor, 大多是廣告. 他們是品牌洋服店, 所以收貴d. 上網找洋服店!
以下這些不是名牌. 有上海工, 有廣東工. 有做full canvass, 又有 fuse. 有收 $2.xk, 又有$1.xk. 你最好付圖, 裁縫較易明白你要求.
保祿洋服, 合安, 鵬峰做fused, 京華, 中興洋服 :
森美斯 (尖沙咀 美麗都大廈, 這大廈其實是裁縫集中地, 部份洋服店都是經這裏交工作予深圳龍崗區的工場) :
http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/supplement/special/art/20130930/18443222
買皮做皮樓, 上網 search: 皮號 皮革
但不知那裏找皮樓內的毛毛消費者決定去那裹做西裝: 商業區洋服店 或找裁縫CMT來料加工?
洋服改衣, search 改衣
天倫, 儷城, 唯美改衣, 恒基, 太多了....在香港買皮鞋並不便宜. 大減價也比外國網店貴. 如不上網買鞋, 我就會到Lane Crawford及 Sogo買皮鞋.
Save at least 30% to make a suit in Hong Kong, try CMT
CMT : Cut, Make, Trimm
the below is in HK$Property rental in HK has been too high, that leaves no choice to tailor shops in Central and Admiralty. They have to charge you over 30% on top of their services to pay their rental in CBD. If you go for CMT outside CBD, you will save average 30% to 40%, rather than going to most tailor shops in HK.
I am not talking about WW Chan class of top grade tailors, they are really the best in HK. I am talking about lower grade tailors than this top grade tailors, that is mid grade to lower grade tailor shops. Fact is most tailor shops in HK are collecting orders from customers, and they pass their works to workshops in Shenzhen Longgang district to save cost and solve their production problems. They are actually providing fitting service only, and they have to mark up the suit fabric price and the workmanship fee, just to survive.
There are too many workshops in Shenzhen Longgang (especially Buji area). Different price of suits are passed to different class of workshops in Longgang, and better workshops charge higher workmanship fee. For example (a brief idea), they charge you HK$8k for a suit, the fabric cost is actually less than $1.5k, the workmanship from Longgang is no more than HK$2k. For a $5k suit, the fabric cost is less than $1k, and the workmanship from Longgang is no more than $1.2k. For a 3k suit, the fabric cost is less than $500, usually come from Shenzhen Dongmen, and the workmanship from Longgang is less than HK$800. For suits over $20k, tailor shops are actually taking higher profit margins for expensive fabric, i.e. 200%-300%! That means, the more expensive fabric you pick, the higher profit margin tailor shops are taking. To save cost, tailor shops would provide cheaper fabrics. In general, tailor shops upstairs take fewer profit margins than those at ground floor. This also applies to Lo Wu Mall, they have to survive to pay the rent.
There are lots of good fabric, just to name a few: Dormeuil, Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Ariston, Thomas Fisher, Zegna , Loro Piana, VBC, Fintes Drago, Charles Clayton, Giorgio Vallino (China made), etc.
Where to buy good fabric?
Search: Piece Goods, You will see lots of supply for suit fabric, you will see good fabric brands for less than $1k per yard, which tailor shops could charge you over $15k for a suit. Basic VBC costs less than $300 per yard, which tailor shops could charge you over $5k for a suit. The more expensive fabric you pick for CMT, the more you save than going to tailor shops as explained above, tailor shops take 200%-300% profit margin on expensive fabrics. Besides, piece goods provide more fabric choice than tailor shops, and this is another reason why consumers would rather go for CMT.Before you go to a fabric house, consult your tailor how many yards you need for your 2 pcs suit, 3 pcs suit, and overcoat. Everyone has different size and height. For me, 3.5yard is good enough for a 2 pcs single-breasted suit. You have to understand, those fabric houses are whole sellers to tailor shops, and they don’t spend time to explain which fabric is good to you. You have to make decision what kind of fabric you will buy before you visit them. In some cases, you tell them the fabric number you will buy, that’s all. You can try fabric houses at Western Market in Sheung Wan, they spend time to serve retail customers. Or, you can check fabrics at tailor shops before going to fabric house.
Hang Kong Woollen: Zegna, Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Dormeuil,
Fielding Brown & Finch : Scabal, Holland & Sherry
Long Wear Hong : Loro Piana, VBC, Charles Clayton, Giorgio Vallino
Loa Hai Shing (more expensive than above 3) : good various fabric, Dormeuil, Scabal, Holland & SherryBetter avoid: omega (mirador mansion in TST) and Saviero (Hung Hom)
Better avoid: KingHERO and MilanoIf you want buying good fabric at low price, online only:
Fresco https://www.hfwltd.com/ , Harrison http://clothtosuit.com/
UK standard is meter. 1 meter = 1.1 yard, 3 meter = 3.3yard.The next issue is about faked brands. Some fabric houses make up a few fabric brand names, such as watch brands, Italian names, English names, famous individuals, etc. When you search online, you will see such fabric brands do not exist at all. Those are mostly China made fabrics with bespoke logos. You might see fabrics without brands, claimed British made or Italian made. Those are also most likely China made, and can be found in Shenzhen Dongmen. A few tailor shops in HK and mainland China could be fooled by those fabric houses, to carry those fabrics claiming famous brands selling to customers at high price. The quality of such kinds of fabric is not guarantee, but a few portions could be acceptable. The following 3 classes could be checked by flame test and smell test:
- Lower class wool fabrics (usually under $400 per yard): industrial fabric
- Mid-class wool fabrics: industrial fabric + cotton fabric or + recycle wool
- High-class wool fabrics: real pure wool
There are too many poor quality fabrics in the market, and the amount of poor quality fabrics could be more than good quality fabrics. Consumers should avoid small size piece goods when purchasing fabrics, and should prefer cutting from a roll of fabric, but not cutting from bigger piece of fabric.
Where to find tailors for CMT?
- first choice: tailors who work for tailor shops and 2) second choice: tailor shops in Kowloon. In general, tailor shops upstairs take fewer profit margins than those at ground floor. You don’t need to go Shenzhen Longgang district. If you search tailor online, you see simply advertisements. Those bespoke tailors are just charging more, because they are brand names.
Here below are some non brand names. Some are Shanghai workmanship, and some are Guangdong workmanship. Some make full canvass, and some make fuse. Some charge $2.xk, and some charge $1.xk. You better give them a few photos, they will understand your requirements.
Beaux Tailor, Hip On, Pang Fung : fuse make, King Wah, Chung Hing Tailor:
Sam Macy (Mirador Mansion in TST, a tailors center, and a hub for tailors passing their work to Shenzhen Longgang factories):
http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/supplement/special/art/20130930/18443222
buy leather to make leather jacket, search: 皮號 皮革
just don’t know where to get the fur in the leather jacket.Consumers make decision where to make a suit: go tailor shops in CBD or go for CMT?
suit alternation, search 改衣
天倫, Land Co , Rita Alteration, HangKeias, too many ....Buying leather shoes in HK is not cheap at all. When shoes are on sale, the price is even higher than those foreign online shops. I would rather go Lane Crawford and Sogo if I don’t want to shop online, or I go foreign online shops.
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